We're Going In: The Clinton-Bailey Market

And its mysterious historic neighbor, the Niagara Frontier Food Terminal

The Clinton-Bailey Market warms up for the season. Photos by the Author.

The Clinton Bailey Market hits its full stride in August — when corn’s high, tomatoes are showing off, and the place hums like a bee swarm. But it’s great to go early.

Because you want to be acquainted with it before the rush. Before the parking lot fills, the eggplants pile up, and the regulars elbow for space around the melon crates. Right now, it’s just stretching its legs — and that’s when you get to breathe.

I used to be a regular, not just here but at the Broadway Market too. Not just in peak season, either, and not just on Saturdays. All year round, whenever they were open. I was hooked on the deals.

The “seconds” — look down, and you might score a basket of use-’em or lose-’em peppers. The bargaining. “Hey, can you throw in another zucchini for the road?” The massive cauliflowers and cabbages, dwarfing what you see at Wegmans.

But schedules shift and habits change. And on Saturday, I realized something. It had been too long.

Too long since I visited that halcyon corner of Clinton Street and Bailey Avenue.

We’re going in!

A taste of Morocco

This old urban market — one of the few in the country owned and run by farmers, not government or some other entity — has a rhythm all its own. Immigrants lend the place an exotic feel, as if you’re magically in Morocco. They bring their culture with them. Later in the season, you’ll see live chickens for sale. And geese.

As I said, it’s still early. There were wide open spaces that, in a few weeks, will be overflowing — with stands, produce, people, and animals.

But that doesn’t mean there weren’t treasures to be found. The early bird gets the calm ... and the good stuff doesn’t run on a seasonal schedule.

Duck eggs! You’ll find them here. I’ve tried them, and I like them, They’re rich and a little wild. At $9 a dozen, though, they were a bit rich for me in another way. Prices have crept up across the board over the last few years, and I felt sticker shock, having been away from the market for so long.

Some things, though, never change.

Becken Farms is still there, offering fine local honey. Elaine, who I always think of as “the honey lady,” is legend. Becken Farms has been at the market for over 50 years, and they are there year-round. They’re famous also for their fruit, cider, and grape juice.

J&M Produce and Garden Center has also been a fixture at the market for just as long. Owner John Parise tells the story.

I left their colorful stand with four herb plants — dill, English thyme, lavender, and my favorite, sage. I also scored a big Martha Washington geranium, reduced from $8 to $6. Who could resist that name?

Continuing my wandering, I picked up three zucchini for $2 — firm, fresh, and already on my list. Local strawberries looked tempting at $5 a basket. There was one basket left. Weighed down with other things, I hesitated — and someone else grabbed the berries. There’s a moral to that story.

Curiouser and curiouser

I paused at the edge of the lot, herbs in one hand, geranium in the other, zucchini swinging from a shopping bag on my wrist. I looked across the street.

The Niagara Frontier Food Terminal was baking in the sun.

I had heard rumors that this historic collection of art deco buildings was seeing a quiet renaissance. New tenants are moving in. It wouldn’t hurt to take a look.

On a hot day, I had found the hottest place in Buffalo, and this was it. Loading docks, massive industrial doors, horizontal sun-drenched buildings with not a tree in sight.

And yet — there was something charming about it. Three tenants I saw right away were Wildflower Meadery, Chateau Buffalo and Snowy Owl Tea. The whimsical names were a dreamy contrast to the terminal’s gritty, urban bones.

Something drew me toward Snowy Owl Tea. I know, tea is a winter thing, but still.

At first, the beautiful industrial doors wouldn’t budge. I assumed it was closed and had started to drift away when the proprietor came running and welcomed me in.

Walking inside, I gasped.

First came the wave of cool — sweet relief on this steamy afternoon. Then came the surprise.

I was in a secret paradise.

I say “secret” because no one else was there, summer being off-season for tea. Tara Bystran-Pruski, who owns this whimsical emporium with her sister Anna, is also a muralist — her work can be seen all around town. She painted the giant snowy owl that watches over the counter.

“I hope it feels like walking into Wonderland, or walking through the cupboard to Narnia,” said Tara.

And it does. Everywhere you look, it becomes curiouser and curiouser.

There is a station where you make friendship bracelets (it sits atop an old library card catalog). A glittering antique cash register named Dolly. An art studio, with hundreds of tubes of paint.

No wonder Snowy Owl is being featured this fall by Enchanted Spaces magazine (formerly Faerie, which tells you everything you need to know). Ten bucks buys you a pot of artisan tea to share with three friends, seated around a long antique table in a place right out of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. I’m rounding up my friends, and I will be back.

I wanted to see Dolly in action, so I purchased fig tea, and orange chocolate tea, Snowy Owl’s tribute to a Buffalo specialty. I tried that orange chocolate tea when I got home. I know, hot tea on a hot day, go figure. But it was delicious.

Later, I was watering my Martha Washington geranium, and I thought about my outing. The flavors, the surprises. I’m glad it’s still early, I thought.

The market’s just getting started.

So am I!

“We’re Going In” celebrates Buffalo and its secrets. Join the fun!

To read about the Botanical Gardens’ “Butterfly Experience,” click here.

To marvel at the mutts at the Buffalo Zoo’s hilarious dog show, click here.

To ride the Metro Rail — always a thrill — click here.

Do you have any suggestions of things you would like to read about? Let me know in the comment section!